2012 4runner oil filter location

2012 4runner oil filter location DEFAULT

Old 01-17-2010, 03:22 PM

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Help where is my oil filter


I just got my 2010 4runner and i can't find where the oil filter is.
Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:06 PM
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IIRC, you have to drop the skidplate to get to it. It's no longer up high like it was on the 4th gen V6. It also uses a cartridge oil filter rather than a spin-on filter.

2010 cartridge oil filter change - tips? - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

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Old 01-17-2010, 09:19 PM
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Wow, great thinking on Toyota's part. They went from one of the eaisest oil changes ever to a freaking cartrige filter. That is total Bull shit.

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Old 01-18-2010, 01:02 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by 074.0RunnerView Post

Wow, great thinking on Toyota's part. They went from one of the eaisest oil changes ever to a freaking cartrige filter. That is total Bull shit.


Forgot where I read it, but the cartridge filter is suppose to have less impact on the environment than a spin-on filter. Part of Toyota going green.

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Old 10-19-2010, 08:12 PM

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2010 4Runner oil filter location & oil change


To change the oil in a 2010 Toyota 4Runner locating and accessing the oil filter is the most difficult part. The new filter is not the old typical screw off. It is a paper cartridge in a non-replaceable canister. This canister is located on the underside center of the engine, below the fan. I would recommend placing the vehicle on front ramps to allow adequate access.

To access the canister you will have to remove 4 – 14mm bolts and 2 – 10mm bolts that hold on the front portion of the skid plate. The four 14mm bolts are slightly recessed and accessed through holes in the skid plate. The two 10 mm bolts also hold on a plastic panel and are close to the outer edges of the skid plate. It is not necessary to remove the rear portion of the skid plate, which covers the oil pan. Once the bolts are removed the pan hinges down to the rear.

The filter canister can now be seen and easily accessed. The canister is black with a silver threaded cap in the center. The cap has a square 3/8” indention in the center used for removal. First unscrew the silver cap using a 3/8” ratchet extension. Note the small 0-ring behind this silver cap. I used a WIX #57173 replacement oil filter, which came with two replacement 0-rings and a small plastic plug in addition to the filter. Once the silver cap is removed insert the slotted end of the small plastic plug into the filter canister in the hole the silver cap covered. It takes a little bit of force to insert this plug. Once inserted, excess oil in the filter will drain out through this plug, so be prepared. I placed a short length of clear plastic tubing on this plug to divert the oil into my drain pan.

To remove the body of the canister I used a LISLE End Cap Filter Wrench for Toyota #54930. The cap wrench slips over the fluted end of the canister and unscrews using a 3/8” drive. Have some shop towels ready, as there will still be some oil remaining in the paper cartridge once the canister is removed. Clean the canister and replace the large 0-ring on the canister body. Insert the new cartridge and replace the canister. Replace the silver cap, inserting a new small 0-ring behind the cap in the round slot. Lift the skid plate back into its original position and replace the bolts.

To drain the oil, there is a small access panel to access the oil pan located to the rear and in the second portion to the skid plate assembly. This oval panel is held in place by two 14 mm bolts. Remove this panel and the 15 mm oil drain plug is easily accessible.

I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad. Since Toyota now recommends oil changes at 10K intervals a lot of folks will only have to do this once a year.

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Old 10-20-2010, 01:00 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by DragonheartView Post

I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad.

Sharp contrast from the 4th gen V6.

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Old 10-20-2010, 01:25 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted by UneekView Post

Forgot where I read it, but the cartridge filter is suppose to have less impact on the environment than a spin-on filter. Part of Toyota going green.

It's not easy...being green.

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Old 05-13-2011, 11:43 AM

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New to this forum... due to necessity.

Bought a 2011 4Runner a few months ago. Decided to change the oil for the first time last evening. Started looking for the oil filter canister and didn't find it... easily. Since the owners manuel is almost worthless, I did a quick search on the internet this morning and found this forum. Thank you Dragonheart for detailed info

Now when I get home this evening, I will complete the task of changing the oil... and move on down my list. I think mowing is next
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:09 PM

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My wife has a 2008 Lexus ES350 with the V6 and the cartridge filter. Once you are used to it...not so bad. But it is still a big PITA compared to a screw on filter. However I will say this:

WARNING: When removing the o-rings from the aluminum cartridge filter housing use a WOOD toothpick and NOT A METAL instrument. If you scratch the aluminum threads they will leak and are not repairable.

WARNING: DO NOT torque the aluminum cartridge back on. when screwing it back on do it hand tight then insert 3/8 drive extension and give it a snug to make sure it is all the way on. Once it is seated...that's it. The large o-ring seals it against the inside of the housing. You need to lubricate the o-ring with some oil as well. You will feel the resistance of the o-ring contacting the housing surface when screwing it back in. DO NOT force it on.

BTW, when I looked over the GEN 5 runner I decided to buy out my lease on my GEN 4

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Old 05-20-2011, 04:18 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DragonheartView Post

I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad.

That's what they said about root canals

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Old 01-11-2012, 09:29 PM
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Thanks. I had to copy, paste on a Word document, and save it for future reference once my 75,000 mile maintenance package runs out. Great write up!

Quote:

Originally Posted by DragonheartView Post

To change the oil in a 2010 Toyota 4Runner locating and accessing the oil filter is the most difficult part. The new filter is not the old typical screw off. It is a paper cartridge in a non-replaceable canister. This canister is located on the underside center of the engine, below the fan. I would recommend placing the vehicle on front ramps to allow adequate access.

To access the canister you will have to remove 4 – 14mm bolts and 2 – 10mm bolts that hold on the front portion of the skid plate. The four 14mm bolts are slightly recessed and accessed through holes in the skid plate. The two 10 mm bolts also hold on a plastic panel and are close to the outer edges of the skid plate. It is not necessary to remove the rear portion of the skid plate, which covers the oil pan. Once the bolts are removed the pan hinges down to the rear.

The filter canister can now be seen and easily accessed. The canister is black with a silver threaded cap in the center. The cap has a square 3/8” indention in the center used for removal. First unscrew the silver cap using a 3/8” ratchet extension. Note the small 0-ring behind this silver cap. I used a WIX #57173 replacement oil filter, which came with two replacement 0-rings and a small plastic plug in addition to the filter. Once the silver cap is removed insert the slotted end of the small plastic plug into the filter canister in the hole the silver cap covered. It takes a little bit of force to insert this plug. Once inserted, excess oil in the filter will drain out through this plug, so be prepared. I placed a short length of clear plastic tubing on this plug to divert the oil into my drain pan.

To remove the body of the canister I used a LISLE End Cap Filter Wrench for Toyota #54930. The cap wrench slips over the fluted end of the canister and unscrews using a 3/8” drive. Have some shop towels ready, as there will still be some oil remaining in the paper cartridge once the canister is removed. Clean the canister and replace the large 0-ring on the canister body. Insert the new cartridge and replace the canister. Replace the silver cap, inserting a new small 0-ring behind the cap in the round slot. Lift the skid plate back into its original position and replace the bolts.

To drain the oil, there is a small access panel to access the oil pan located to the rear and in the second portion to the skid plate assembly. This oval panel is held in place by two 14 mm bolts. Remove this panel and the 15 mm oil drain plug is easily accessible.

I have to say Toyota didn’t do us any favors in ease of access, but after you go through an oil change once it’s really not that bad. Since Toyota now recommends oil changes at 10K intervals a lot of folks will only have to do this once a year.

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Old 02-27-2012, 07:50 PM

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thanks for the tips. I was stumped this weekend trying to find my oil pan and all I found was small access panel with a baby pan hidden away. It aint easy being green i guess.

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Old 05-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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as i was looking to change the oil myself, i run into your write-up. thanks. i emailed it myself so i could keep it for the reference in my archive.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:52 PM
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Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!


Many of you have asked for a tutorial for this- so here is my best effort to explain the process. Let me start by saying that I am NOT a mechanic, but I have been changing my own oil for, well, 27 years or so FWIW.

IF ANYONE NOTICES AN ERROR, OR SOMETHING I SHOULD ADD, PLEASE SPEAK UP SO I CAN EDIT THIS TO BE AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE FOR THE FORUM!


Ok, enough with the small talk- let's get dirty.




Time to get some supplies together:


Here is what you will need, along with some extra stuff to make this a relatively pleasant experience...











- 7 Quarts (you need 6.6) of synthetic 0W-20 oil. I prefer Mobil1, but Toyota Oil is great as well


- Toyota filter kit part# 04152-YZZA5

- Toyota oil drain plug gasket part # 90430-12031

- Extra large drain pan

- Funnel

- 64mm filter wrench

- 3/8" drive ratchet, extension and 10mm, 12mm, & 14mm sockets

- Nitrile gloves

- Old Micro fiber towels, and papertowels to clean up

- Owner's manual

- Big plastic spill catcher pan (optional)



Time to change your oil...



Get in your 4Runner, and drive it for a bit. You want your oil to be at operating temperature (read, hot) when you change it. Make sure your temp gauge looks like this;





When you get back, put on the parking brake and pop the hood.
Make sure you are wearing some old clothes...don't ask where I got this one, but my wife is glad I'm ruining it...







Hook up your smartphone to the garage stereo (you DO have a stereo out there, right?) and crank up the RUSH station on Pandora. It's my thread, so just do it...Or, just play this. One of the best Rush songs ever made.









Now you're ready as ever.

Before I forget- Do yourself and US a favor and write yourself some reminders in the owner's manual, and on the oil fill cap(silver sharpie)!







Remove the oil fill cap, and set it aside (the plastic engine cover is a good spot). This will help the oil drain out easier and faster.

Get under there and locate the oil drain cover. The bolts are 12mm, and there are 2 of them. Remove the bolts.








With the cover removed, you will see the 14mm oil drain plug.




Put your drain pans in place, and carefully break the bolt loose.

For you newbies, it's easy to get mixed up when you are upside down under your truck. Make sure the ratchet is in reverse BEFORE you go under there!

Once the bolt is loose, take it out by hand slowly. The HOT OIL will immediately gush out when the bolt is removed, so be prepared.






This is what the drain plug looks like,along with the washer that should be replaced every time.







Now that your oil is happily draining away, you can remove the skid plate, and plastic front cover.

First the cover. There are a total of 7 10mm bolts, and a push-pin to remove. Here are the pics, along with how to remove the push-pin (pop the center gray piece out, and then pull out the black ring). It's important to note that I have removed my front spoiler, so you won't see that in the pictures!













CONTINUED
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:53 PM
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Removing the cover will reveal the 2 front skid bolts...




Look towards the back to reveal the other 2 skid bolts...






The skid bolts are 12mm. The skid plate is hinged from the front. Remove the front bolts first, then the back. When removing the last back bolt, hold up on the skid so it doesn't bang you on the head! The front "hinges" are a royal PITA to unhook the first time around, unless the truck is on a lift. Just keep wiggling it until it comes loose.





IF you plan on doing this again, do yourself a HUGE favor and grind the end of the clips off to look like this. You will love me for this suggestion, trust me.




One more pic of the bolt locations!





Do yourself another favor- ESPECIALLY YOU OFFROADER'S. Coat the threads of all the bolts you removed (except the drain plug!) with some anti-sieze. No rusted bolts- ever.





Everything is off- ready for the filter removal.




By now your oil has pretty much drained out, right? Put your new washer back onto the drain plug and tighten it up (spec is 30 ft-lb). Make sure it's snug. Before you put that cover back on, get in there with a flashlight and a rag and wipe away any oil that splashed onto stuff. How can you spot a leak if you already have a mess?

When it looks nice and pretty, put the cover back on. Tip- when putting this cover, the skid, and the plastic cover back on- start allthe bolts into everyhole by hand and thentighten them up (21 ft-lb for the cover and skid). That way you will be sure all the holes line-up, and you won't cross-thread anything.



Back to the filter- Move your drain pan into position under the filter housing. THIS is the filter housing...








Pay attention to the location of this metal indicator tab! It should be in the same location after we re-install the housing.






Using your ratchet and 3/8" extension, remove the metal filter plug. A small amount of oil will drip out.





Open up your filter box and look at what's inside. There are important instructions on the box, and inside the lid for you to reference.

The kit comes with 2 new O-rings, a drain tool, and the filter itself.








Locate the plastic drain tool and plug it into the base of the filter. Once again, HOT OIL will immediately drain out, so be ready!







Once the oil has stopped dripping, push the plug to the side to pull it off. This part is neat- toyota designed the plug to pull the old O-ring off with it! Kinda cool the way they did that. Both of these parts are trash. It's Ok, throw them away.




Thanks to the joy of the cartridge filter, we are still not done here...



Using your ratchet and 64mm filter wrench (make sure your ratchet is in "reverse!"), remove the filter housing. It will be tight, and stay tight until it's almost all the way off.









Remove the old filter, and toss it. You also need to remove the old O-ring on the housing and throw it away. I used the knife to more easily show the O-ring. Do not damage the plastic housing(!)- you can remove the O-ring by hand easily.





CONTINUED
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:54 PM
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Clean inside your plastic filter housing, and the grooves where both O-rings were located. Clean inside the metal housing located on the engine as well. Be careful! Use something that is lint-free and make sure you don't leave anything in there that doesn't belong.




Locate the NEW big O-ring from the filter kit, and coat it with some fresh oil. Install it onto the plastic housing HERE.






MAKE SURE IT IS SEATED HERE!




Locate your new filter and install it into the housing. There is no top or bottom to the filter.









Reinstall the assembly.



Once the housing is seated against the metal portion, keep tightening until the metal indicator tab is back in it's original location (spec is 18 ft-lb). Like this:








Locate the NEW small O-ring from your filter kit and apply some fresh oil. Make sure the grove it seats into is clean, and press it into place. Install the metal drain plug and re-tighten until snug (Spec is 10 ft-lb) Do NOT tighten too much, so as to turn the plastic housing!)









NOW, you are finally done with the filter. Clean up any spilled oil from the surrounding parts, and the filter housing. Double check your work!

Wait- don't put those skids back on just yet- we want to check for leaks first...



Fill it up with 6.6 quarts of fresh 0W-20 oil. Do NOT overfill! Pour in 6.5 quarts, and top off after you have started the truck and checked the level with the dipstick...







Look underneath for some leaks...No leaks, right?


Get inside and start the truck. The "Oil" idiot light should briefly illuminate and then turn off. If it doesn't turn off,

SHUTDOWN THE ENGINE, and check to see what you screwed up....



Check for leaks again. If there are no leaks go ahead and reinstall the skidplate (21 ft-lb) and the plastic cover. Remember- start all the screws and then tighten them.


Make sure the truck is on level ground and check the oil level on the dipstick(engine OFF). Pull out the dipstick and wipe it off. Re-insert it into the tube until it's fully seated and wait a few seconds. Carefully pull the dipstick back out and read the level. It should be between the 2 indicator dots on the stick. The oil is very clear and hard to see, so this may take a few tries! Add oil as necessary. If you have added too much, you will need to remove some from the drain pan, so...don't add too much.








One more thing to do- Reset the oil-life indicator (maintenance minder).


Oh yeah- didn't I tell you to have your owner's manual handy?

Page 501, it details the procedure.






This is what the reset looks like on the SR5...












Wasn't that fun? Changing your oil is actually a very satisfying (manly) thing to accomplish! I won't trust anyone else to do it.

Make sure you dispose of your used oil responsibly.


Have fun! (Whew! That was a long one. 58(!) pictures... I'm tired now... )
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:28 AM
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WOW
Great INFO
thanks for thread and the how to.
learned alot from it, MAINLY I know where the filter is hiding now.
Thanks again for great write up

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Old 05-29-2012, 06:52 AM
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Excellent thread. One of the best I've seen. Thank you for the considerable time and effort that you put into this.

But my God, my God. What the hell was the genius (idiot?) thinking who designed this oil change system. Nothing like needlessly complicating one of the most basic and essential maintenance requirements.

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Old 05-29-2012, 06:58 AM
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your photo skills have come a long way, Antman!

i would only add to also remove the oil fill cap to ease draining out all of the old oil.

nicely done.

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Old 05-29-2012, 07:25 AM
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Great!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flip-erView Post

WOW
Great INFO
thanks for thread and the how to.
learned alot from it, MAINLY I know where the filter is hiding now.
Thanks again for great write up

No problem, glad it helped out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 36boundView Post

Nothing like needlessly complicating one of the most basic and essential maintenance requirements.

My thoughts exactly...

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandcrawlerView Post

i would only add to also remove the oil fill cap to ease draining out all of the old oil.

Oops! Forgot that- I'll edit that in. Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:49 AM

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Borrowing from a popular ad, you made it so simple, even a Cave Man could do it! Thanks for the detailed photos and tutorial.

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Old 05-29-2012, 10:12 AM
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Great write up and pictures! However I'm a bit worried that such sensitive information is being posted so openly that even the Commies can view it.

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Old 05-29-2012, 11:08 AM
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Excellent thread with excellent pictures. Great job, bud.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:21 AM
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Bravo on the pictures,....and a great write up.

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Old 05-29-2012, 11:51 AM
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Thank you very much. After reading through the horror stories of dealer screw ups, cost, and DIY frustration, I was starting to back away from a possible 5th gen move. There's nothing like a good, thorough write-up to clear things up. I agree that if you do it yourself, you know it was done right. I'll leave a note over on the 3rd gen board for anyone who might be doing pre-purchase research.

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Old 05-29-2012, 11:53 AM

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Great post, now have you changed your transmission fluid yet???

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Old 05-29-2012, 12:55 PM

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Just to add a few torque specs for bolts / filter housing:

Filter Drain Plug - 10 ft-lb
Oil Filter Cap (plastic housing) - 18 ft-lb
Skid plate bolts (x4) - 21 ft-lb
Engine under Cover Seal (x2) - 21 ft-lb
Oil Pan Drain Plug - 30 ft-lb

Nice write-up Antman, it takes a lot of time to put all of that together in a how-to.

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Oil & Filter Change Toyota 4Runner (2010-2019)

1. Getting Started - Prepare for the repair

2. Open the Hood - How to pop the hood and prop it open

3. Find Oil Drain - Locate the oil drain plug underneath the vehicle

4. Drain Oil - Set up the workspace, drain oil and replace plug

5. Find Oil Filter - Locate the oil filter

6. Remove Filter - Position drain pan and remove the oil filter

7. Replace Filter - Add oil to the new oil filter and insert it

8. Remove Oil Cap - Take off the oil fill cap

9. Add Oil - Determine the correct oil type and add oil

10. Replace Cap - Put the oil fill cap back on the engine

11. Leak Inspection - Start vehicle and visually inspect for leaks

12. Replace Cover - Put the cover back in place

13. Remove Dipstick - Locate, remove and wipe oil dipstick

14. Read Oil Level - Reinsert dipstick, remove and then read oil level

15. Clean Up Tips - How to best clean spills and deal with used oil

16. More Info. - Additional information on oil changes

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This video shows you how to change the oil and oil filter in your 2015 Toyota 4Runner. When you change your own oil, you know that you are putting quality oil in your 4Runner and that the filter is being changed too. Most importantly, you get a chance to look around under your 4Runner for potential trouble spots. This video shows you the location of your oil drain plug, oil filter, oil fill cap and dipstick in addition to the steps needed to change the oil and filter in your 4Runner. For most Toyotas, you can wrap an old belt around the oil filter and unscrew it by hand. If you can't do this, see our parts page to find a Toyota 4Runner oil filter wrench. If your 4Runner is too low to the ground to access your drain plug and oil filter, be sure to use jack stands and safe jacking procedures before getting under your 4Runner.

Most Toyotas have the oil type printed on the oil cap - it will likely be 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30 or 10W-40. If it isn't printed on the oil cap, check your owners manual for the exact type before adding new oil. We recommend wearing safety glasses whenever you are working under your 4Runner. You never know what could be dripping down from the engine, battery acid, engine coolant, brake fluid, etc. All of these fluids are extremely harmful to your eyes and skin so it is important to protect yourself.

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Toyota Oil Canister Tutorial
This automotive maintenance tutorial was specifically written to assist owners of the fifth generation (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 & 2016) Toyota 4Runner SUV in changing the motor oil and replacing the oil filter on the 1GR-FE 4.0 liter V6 engine.

Owners of other Toyota, Lexus or Scion vehicles such as the Yaris, Corolla, Matrix, Prius, Camry, RAV4, Sienna, Tacoma, Tundra, FJ Cruiser, Venza, Highlander, Avalon, Sequoia, Land Cruiser, IS 250, ES 350, GS 350, tC, xB, xD, iQ and FR-S may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools and other items needed to complete this procedure include a 10mm socket, a 12mm socket, a 14mm socket, a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench, an AST Tools TOY 640 oil filter wrench (64mm with 14 flats), a 24mm socket, a 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench, a used oil catch container, an automotive funnel and 7 U.S. quarts of SAE 0W-20 oil.

A few compatible replacement oil filters with their part numbers are as follows: Toyota 04152-YZZA5,K&N PS-7023, Fram CH10158, Purolator L25609, ACDelco PF2260, Pennzoil PZ-165, Bosch 72251WS, Wix 57173 and Hastings LF618.

The first steps are to run the engine for a few minutes, park the SUV on a level surface and then turn off the ignition.

Warming up the engine will help suspend any contaminants within the old oil and also allow it to drain out more quickly.

Engage the emergency parking brake and chock both sides of the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving.

Open the hood, twist off the oil filler cap in the counterclockwise direction and lift out the yellow plastic handled oil dipstick an inch or two.

Removing the oil filler cap and lifting up the dipstick will prevent a vacuum from forming and also allow the old oil to drain out more quickly.

Slide under the engine bay with the 10mm socket, 12mm socket and a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench.

In order to access the oil drain bolt and the oil filter housing, you'll need to remove the metal under engine cover (A.K.A. splash guard or "skid plate").

Remove the four bolts near the front edge of the skid plate by turning them counterclockwise with a 10mm socket and a 1/4" drive or a 3/8" drive ratcheting wrench depending on your socket.

To remove the oil filter housing, you'll need a 64mm oil filter wrench with 14 flats or "flutes" such as the AST Tools TOY 640.

Attach the oil filter wrench to a 24mm socket and a 1/2" drive ratcheting wrench.

Loosen the oil filter housing by turning it counterclockwise.

Pull off the oil filter wrench and spin off the housing the rest of the way by hand.

Allow the old oil to drain out from the filter receptacle for at least a minute or two.

Pull the old filter out of the cap and discard it. Pry the old rubber o-ring gasket off the bottom of the threads on the filter cap.

I recommend buying the genuine OEM Toyota 04152-YZZA5oil filter.

Lightly lubricate the new rubber o-ring gasket with some new SAE 0W-20 oil.

Lubricating the filter cap gasket will help it form a better seal, prevent leaks and make it easier to remove the filter cap during the next oil change.

Push the new rubber o-ring down on to the bottom of the threads on the filter cap.

Push the new cartridge oil filter in to the filter cap until it pops securely in to place.

Spin on the filter cap in the clockwise direction by hand to prevent it from becoming cross threaded.

Tighten the filter cap with the wrench to about 1/4 to 1/3 turn past hand tight.

Try to avoid over tightening the oil filter cap to prevent from cracking the plastic housing.

Double check that the drain bolt and the filter cap are tight before moving on to the next steps.

Run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off and allow the new oil to drain down to the oil pan for at least 5 to 10 minutes.

Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, re-insert it and pull it out again to check the oil level.

If necessary, slowly pour in the last of the 0.6 (6/10ths) of a quart of oil and repeatedly check the level on the dipstick until it reaches just at or below the upper metal dot on the dipstick which indicates the "Full" or "Maximum" line.

You may not need to pour in the entire engine oil capacity for an oil change with filter replacement of 6.6 U.S quarts (6.2 liters) in order for the level to reach the full line.

Re-insert the dipstick and make sure that the oil filler cap is tight.

To reset the "Maint Reqd" (maintenance required) light, follow these steps.

Regular Metal Ignition Key Method - 1. Switch the display to Trip Meter A. 2. Turn off the ignition. 3. Press and hold the trip meter reset button. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the "On" position but do not start the engine. 4. Continue holding the button until the trip meter displays 000000.

Smart Key System Method - 1. Switch the LCD display to Trip Meter "A". 2. Press the Engine Start / Stop button to turn off the ignition. 3. Press and hold the trip meter reset button. 4. Press the Engine Start / Stop button (but do not put your foot on the brake pedal and do not start the engine). 5. Continue holding the trip meter reset button until you see 000000 on the display.

The "MAINT REQD" light should no longer be illuminated on the gauge panel.

Be sure to record the oil change in your vehicle's service records.

For more, check out my other 2010-2016 Toyota 4Runner DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.

(The oil capacity for an oil change with filter replacement for the 2.7L 2TR-FE I4 engine is 6.1 U.S. quarts or 5.8L)
 

Sours: https://www.paulstravelpictures.com/2010-2016-Toyota-4Runner-1GR-FE-V6-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide/

Location oil 2012 4runner filter

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5TH GEN 4RUNNER Oil Change - Save Money and Upgrade Your Truck!

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